THE MOST RELIABLE NAME IN
EXPEDITIONS TO ACONCAGUA
Plaza de Mulas, a city tucked away at 4.350m
Plaza de Mulas (PM) is the most visited base camp of the Park and the starting point to Route Normal: a simple route, technically easy, with marked trails whose difficulty is the high, cold and constant change. About 70% of climbers attempt the summit on this route and the chances of achieving it are high if proper acclimatization is contemplated. The neighboring hills, all greater than 5000, are the perfect setting for achieving acclimatization.
Where is located? PM is about 35 km from the Provincial Park entrance located at Horcones (2,950 m). The approach to this camp is advisable to do it in three days (two nights). The slope of this section is 1.400m. (See map)
How do I access and how long? We start from the Ranger station to the camp Horcones Confluence (3,390). As we entered the park we see the majestic peaks first painted green, yellow, brown and red. This stretch is performed in about 4 hours to climb 440 m.
On the second day approach to PM, as part of the acclimatization, we trek to the viewpoint of the South Wall is located in the Plaza Francia camp (4.050m) famous internationally because from there the ascent to the risky route and difficult of Aconcagua South Face (link South Wall). From this point you can enjoy breathtaking hanging glaciers and large avalanches that vibrate the mountain. The trek is estimated at 7 pm and ends with the return to Confluencia.
The third day of climbing we made the longest stretch: Confluencia - Plaza de Mulas. It is a trek of 6 to 8 hours with a very important gap, 910mm. The path is easy and is well marked by the passage of climbers and animals that carry equipment and food to the small town of heights.
Available Services: Drinkable water, toilets, ranger station with helipad and free preventive and ongoing medical care throughout the season. The professionals also attend emergencies in case of accident or illness and decide high climber evacuation may be by helicopter or mule.
Learn more about our food services, technology and transportation in PM.
Camps. There are three camps in height between PM and the summit. Places to set tents are scarce in field 1 and field 3.
- Canada and Country Plaza 1 (5.050m): Arriving at the first high camp is to get away from Plaza de Mulas and enter a more hostile whether of high mountains. The scenario here changes completely: there are no traces of vegetation and prevailing high peaks and absolute silence. This path of hiking takes about 3 or 4 hours and has a vertical drop of 750m.
- Condors Nest or Camp 2 (5.550m): After 4 or 5 hours of walking we reached a large camp consisting of striking rocks in the form of shapely peaks. The sunsets from here are magical and make Condors Nest a true viewpoint in the highest vertical drop of 500m from Camp 1.
- Cholera Plaza, Berlin shelter or Camp 3 (5.970m): In this camp the height and causes a great stir. With a slower walk, we are witnesses of spectacular views because we are leaving the nearby summits. Many climbers use Berlin Refugio (5.930m) and Camp 3. This is another alternative camp, equidistant from Plaza Wrath but, being older, the surroundings are quite dirty and contaminated.
At 6.380m there is another camp, Refugio Independencia (in ruins), where it is not recommended to spend the night at because of the height and strong winds, although it can be used in emergency situations.
The day of summit (6.962m) is the hardest of the expedition. We start from Camp 3 to trek from 8 to 14 hours with almost 1000m of altitude where the effects of this are evident. It is a climb without technical difficulties but physically and mentally demanding to finally step to the point where there are no horizons, the highest point of America.
Surrounding hills. The west face of Aconcagua is surrounded by numerous hills. These are ideal for acclimatization 5000m from PM: (see map)
- Horn (5.462m): A major challenge for climbers. Some routes are simple ascents, but some others are difficult to climb especially in the south wall. The direct route south side is of high technical demands, with 800m of altitude, long string of extreme difficulty.
- Bonnet (5.004m): The most commonly used as a strategy for acclimation as its ascent is easy with a marked track from the base to the summit, through a field of "penitents" (high snow formations). From the top you will see the Ruta Normal and complete a stunning view of the West Wall of the Aconcagua.
- Also there are the Cerro Catedral (5.335m), Cerro de los dedos (5.818m), Mexico (5.883m) and Tolosa (5.432m).
First ascent. Matthias Zurbriggen, was the first one to reach the summit of America on January 14, 1897. Zurbriggen was born in 1856 in Switzerland and he was one of the biggest climbers in the nineteenth century. Also he was mountain guide in the Alps, climbed in South America, the Himalayas and the Southern Alps.
